Cut, Colour & Camo
The three factors you need to consider while deciding your summer wardrobe’s do’s and don’ts, straight from some of the country’s coolest menswear designers and dressers.
At shows in London and Milan, sharp hourglass silhouettes, fluid shapes and forms drew attention. Looks like we’re heading into an era of neutral gender-isation in fashion. We saw waists cinched-in, belts wrapped externally (Miuccia Prada belted a long tunic shirt), and cummerbunds slipped on over blouses. If all this softening makes little sense to you, here’s how you can embrace the new trends without going over the gender line: Try narrow lowers, comfort fits, and structural shapes as alternatives (juxtaposed with your classics and basic silhouettes). Tip: For a wider shoulder, ask your tailor to pull in the waists for your shirts and jackets—you’ll be in tune with the hourglass trend.
“Shorts, especially Bermudas, are good for warmer months. The bomber jacket has picked up and is here to stay.”
Kunal Anil Tanna
“Structural and masculine silhouettes are in vogue. Experimentation is passé.”
“Scarves in natural fibres such as 100 percent cotton and feather-silk are trending.”
“In our designs, the soul of the garment is Indian. We have western silhouettes in Indian and earthy fabrics like wool, linen, Benarasi brocades, Ari silks and Bhagalpuri cotton-silks. We are also moving away from skinny silhouettes to more comfort ones.Double-breasted suits are back, and so is the Indian bandhgala.”
“Structured military-influenced ensembles (soldier-style) with deconstructed jackets, detachable sleeves, subtle metal embellishments, emblems and brooches and in lightweight breezy fabrics are in. Then you have jackets teamed with kurtas.”
“Techno blazers, printed bow ties, and monochromes with textures and patterns will make this season’s classic combos interesting.”
Colour giant Pantone forecasted natural tones interspersed with deep foundation colours for unassuming sophistication. If you can visualise colour taxonomy (probably thanks to the women in your lives), the list includes dusk, dazzling, placid and classic blues, glacier grey, treetop, toasted almond, magenta purple and purple haze, sandstone and herb. Next, army green dominated ensembles at Ermenegildo Zegna and Michael Kors, brick to blood reds at Dolce & Gabbana’s matador-inspired show, and black returned in an impactful way at Givenchy and Tom Form. Inference: Play with classics, as usual, but also with not-so-manly colours, although judiciously, and sometimes as strong accents.
“A lot of bold colours like crimson red and greens on the darker side of the palate. And one can expect shades of purple and bright blues, too.”
Kunal Anil Tanna
“Classic deep hues like burgundy, plum, and grape wine are an essential part of the palette.”
“(Colours) will range from bright colours to muted tones and pastels.”
“This time, we are playing with fresh colours like pastels, brights, and classics like linen, natural and ivory stay.”
“Pastel tones of nude, blush, chalky blues and dewy green to deeper, richer tones of blue, burgundy and red, offset by leather and metal embellishments.”
“Neutrals, whites, patterns, shine, earthy colours will rule for men in the Indian market.”
THE CAMO DETAILS
We’re talking wearable prints, textures, accessories and surface ornamentation. Think colour-blocked sneakers with dark ensembles (a la Kenzo, Philip Lim, and Louis Vuitton) if you don’t want to combine chunky hues. Opt for small, embroidered panels and dual-toned prints to stay true to the ’70s vibe. Other trending concepts are three-tier layering as seen at Dries Van Noten and Givenchy, pin clustering at Dior and Hermès, and all-over prints at Louis Vuitton and Etro. Indian designers brought back Normcore in a big way.
“We’re looking at prints, polka dots, colour blocking (it helps turn looks from day to night), and chest monograms, plus brooches and lapel pins to accessorise suits.”
Kunal Anil Tanna
“Boxy cuts and florals.”
“Brushstroke and tropical prints, tie and dye and shibori effects are trending as techniques.”
“We are big on block prints. It is in our DNA. Then we work with ikat weaving techniques.”
“Luxe, dramatic minimalism is the look of the season. Wear one statement piece and keep the rest of it simple. Combine an embellished jacket with a tonal bottom or vice versa, add a bold, quirky accessory or just go for a bright colour to stand out in a crowd! Also try big and bold colourful prints on jackets and trousers.”
“I’m working on new cuts for trousers like stylised panelling, innovative drapes, playing with the direction of prints and checks. Denim-on-denim will also rule.”
DESIGNERS ON BOARD
Siddharth Saigal, Dhruv Vaish, Kunal Anil Tanna, Suket Dhir, Nivedita Saboo, Paresh Lamba